With love from Byron

FROM LIANA:

The first official stop on our journey took us about an hour south of our previous home in the Gold Coast to Byron Bay. We had spent a few nights in the camper prior to that to get everything packed up and set up but heading off to Byron felt like the real start of the journey. Work was finished, all our stuff was in storage, keys turned in to our now old place – we were officially nomads.

All of our friends and colleagues at the Commonwealth Games were always going to and talking about Byron, but given how close it was to the Gold Coast we had only been there once for lunch at The Farm with the fabulous Clare Jarrett. Not part of this trip but The Farm is truly one of the best dining experiences there is, especially with children. I truly have no idea why we were Byron virgins when we lived so close – it did seem a little too trendy and cool for us. Daniel may have some different phrases to use but I’ll let that be his cross to bear!

Looking at all the beautiful, young surfers riding their bikes around I immediately felt too old, too fat and nowhere near organic and healthy enough for Byron. Having said that within seconds of driving through the town I totally got what all the fuss was about. Byron was undeniably cool. Everything was designed and decorated in this wooden hybrid style of coastal Hamptons meets barnyard-chic.

I had a long list of things I wanted to see and do in Byron and the Hinterland. I’ve learnt after many years with him that the best way to get my husband actively exploring is to give him a list and agenda a few days in advance, so that his mind can process it and spit out a result which is slightly less whinging. Ultimately, 99% of the time he ends up loving the things I find for us to do – it’s just getting him there which is the challenge!

For our time in Byron we hung our hat at Byron Bay Holiday Park. A couple of kilometres out of town, its facilities are very much in need of a refurb and some TLC but it provides good value for money. Looking at the map of the park there were hundreds of numbered pitches and sites – while it was pretty empty while we were there I would hate to be there during school holidays or festival periods when it’s booked out. The literally couple of communal facilities and tiny pool would be hell on earth (for me anyway). The park however does have a private walkway to Tallows Beach which was the first stop. It was about a 10 minute walk to the beach and one of the first things we saw was the first of many signs warning about brown snakes being prevalent in the area. Not a good start.

We get to the beach snake bite free. The waves were huge – easy to see where Byron gets its surfing prowess from. The beach was massive stretching on and on, and covered with small bluebottle jellyfish. After a little while of splashing about in the waves with the kids, Ryder toddled off and inevitably went to touch one of the pretty blue jellyfish. Now I swear I got there in time before he actually touched it, but his instant screaming would lead me to admit I was wrong. His hand got red and swollen, there was more screaming, there was “I told you so”, more screaming, Googling and more screaming. After about an hour of doing his best Hunchback of Notre Dame impression not using his injured arm all was forgotten. Textbook bluebottle sting.

Australia: 1. Actons: 0

Next stop was the Cape Byron Lighthouse, a few minutes drive from town. Some friends had done the Byron Marathon which goes up and back from the Lighthouse. After seeing how steep that ascent is I’ll give them even more credit. After paying the $8 to park up there (which the Brit is still complaining about) we took the beautiful walk around the headlands up to the lighthouse.

We took a spontaneous walk from the lighthouse down to Little Watego’s Beach. It’s an easy and beautiful walk which takes you right past the most Easterly Point of Mainland Australia – pretty cool the stumble upon. The beach is beautiful, perfect for kids as rock pools form a natural fence either side of the beach so they are super safe and contained. And after our experience that day – not a jellyfish in sight. For me, this was the highlight of Byron.

Day 2 brought a rainy morning where we headed about 25 minutes into the Byron Hinterland to take a look at Killen Falls. I was hoping for some waterfall swimming but despite the online reviews the swimming pool didn’t look too appealing. We stopped off at the Harvest Café for some extremely overpriced coffees and pastries – but yet another thing ticked off my list.

From here we headed into the Broken Head Nature Reserve to find Whites Beach – which was voted #1 Travel Secret by Australian Traveller. The instructions to find the beach online are pretty elusive, but actually it was pretty easy to find once you are in the reserve and well signposted. I was worried that the hike down to the beach wouldn’t be suitable for the kids, but actually it was super easy and only about 10 minutes to hike down to the beach. Like any awarded or publicised “secret” spot, the minute it’s listed it becomes anything but that. But the beach is perfect with great swimming, and the hike to get there instantly made it feel like an adventure.

We finished off a perfect Byron trip with some sunset drinks in the Beach Hotel with some awesome live entertainment. We then took fish and chips from Fishmongers down to Main Beach where there was more fabulous live entertainment from local musicians. An evening walk along the beach splashing in the sea and collecting shells and I can officially say I Heart Byron.

FROM DANIEL:

So, Byron Bay. Alright for a visit for a few days. Any longer than that and I think the people would start to annoy me. All far too good looking with too much free time on their hands. Agree with Liana that the holiday park was ok for the money. Taking the walk down to Tallows Beach is a bit like being in an Indiana Jones movie – the threat of snakes everywhere and the beach covered in stinging bluebottles, the only thing missing was some natives with spears (although I’m sure the locals are partial to chanting around a bonfire).

The Lighthouse was well worth the visit although discovering the $8 parking fee nearly gave me a heart attack. After recovering from that initial shock, I was then hit by the fact they don’t take card so had to park halfway down the mountain where card was readily accepted. Having walked up the hill to the Lighthouse I was advised by the wife that to fully appreciate it we would need to do the hike to the beach below. Not a long walk but fairly steep with lots of steps – son in one hand, pushchair in the other, I was happy to call it a day with some cold ones.

Fish and chips on the beach (although overpriced and nothing special) was a definite highlight as was the sunset walk on the beach. Seems like everyone here has a guitar and thinks they can play it.